Saturday 23 August 2014

Hum Hum-Our Very Own Waterfall in Kamalganj, Moulvibazar


I am quite sure that anybody would mark me as an inexperienced hiker and too lazy & unfit lady to take a trekking that might take 6-7 hours. So I wasn't much surprised when the elderly guy at Kolabon Para told at first sight - "she's not gonna make it" as we were getting ready for the 5 hours long hike typically for the local villagers. This very question came to our mind at 5:30 am in the morning in a different way- "are we going to make it?" when we all sat quietly, helplessly at Rupganj just after a wheel got punctured and it was raining so heavily that the car windscreen wiper failed to clear vision.

J trying to loosen the punctured tyre
 We started our journey at 4:30 in the morning, hoping to be at Sreemongal by 8 am.
The mechanic couldn't fix it
Finally after running in uncertainty for about half an hour we could get the tyre fixed at a shop and reached our place of stay "the Heed Guest House" at Kamalganj, Moulvibazar. It is situated up on a small bump just after a pleasant drive through the Lawachhara Reserve Forest. This is one of the prettiest rain forests in the world I can bet.  We could find a Jeep that could take us to Kolabon Para. It was 2500 for the round trip + some gratuity to Kolabon Para from Heed Guest house.
on the way to Kolabon Para

On the way to Kolabon Para 

We arrived at Kolabon Para quite late. The notice there says no tourist allowed to take the trail after 12 pm. However, we kind of bargained and  the trickiest was to get rid of the criminal looking guide. Our driver cautioned us not to trust them and take help from a guide of Kolabon Para locals. We listened and thanks to him for such a precious advice. So, Do Not be fooled by the people at this entrance. Always take a guide from the KP village.
This is the entrance to Champarai Tea Estate that is where the KP villagers work. We asked the wage: it's 7 days a week for 460 tk! :(

This muddy and slippery road leads to Kolabon Para Village, surely a two-wheeler is not a choice 
Local children are trying to sell their bamboo sticks for the team and our just hired guide Apan picking the bests among them. The sticks are too cheap! 5 tk each. Most villagers work in nearby tea gardens and this newly found tourism has only expanded their way of income. It's unbelievable the kind of support they provide as guides. for 5 of us, he agreed at 250 tk. But his kind effort and help made us double the rate after we returned from there. Without him, it was impossible. We saw other guides too who were just trying to escape work. But he and another fellow Dhananjay (we paid him the same) just joined us voluntarily and helped us in an unforgettable way. We highly recommend hiring both of them. Sadly, we don't have their contact numbers :( 

We started the trail

There were 4 in total that we had to cross
Another bamboo and wooden bridge

Champarai Tea Estate

We watch them climbing up as we were taking rest at a 1/3rd height of the hill. We climbed at least 7 such hills and the most difficult part was the climbing down part. It was raining heavily and muddy as well as slippery all over. These bamboo sticks are not to be spared at all. 
View from a hill top: you can see the lush green hills and part of Indian mountains in distant 
At last we touched the base and the stream. It was ice cold and so soothing for a while. However, as time passed by my legs started freezing. At places it as waist level deep for someone of my height.  

Hum Hum at last!
It's not possible to describe the beauty of this still close to nature waterfall that on of the very few in Bangladesh. I saw tourists dancing in joy forgetting the pain they took to arrive here. 

I did some editing




Unedited vie, all photos below and 2 of the above are taken by A whose camera just got fixed. Last time it almost died in the US while taking another "traveller" trip. This time it went in to coma again after it got soaked in rainwater when we walked for almost an hour and half in the dusk and after dark. Luckily, the photoes lived!

NO edit, upper half of the waterfall

Another view

The falls

No edit!

Returning journey begins....this time we took the cold stream, called Jhiri Path. Jhiri means Hilly natural cold water streams


The road we took to come back was the toughest. Since we climbed up on the way to Hum Hum and it was the dry path, we wanted to take the stream to reach the village. It was cold, muddy and we had to cross the strong current of the hilly stream. Yet, the experience was rewarding. We could feel the silence of the forest at night, saw fireflies dancing in the dark. We also could feel how tough it is for the locals to live like it. People who keep complaining about life should take this walk some times. We walked barefoot since the knee deep muddy path was too difficult to walk with shoes on. At times in the dark we were stepping on roots and many sharp objects.....we had to cross some parts of the stream that were mid-belly high for me and the muddy slit was mid-shin high. It's not possible for me to describe in words the fear I felt- of leeches, snakes, poisonous insects, mosquitoes, fractures as I was falling down every 5-10 minutes.
As I sat on a wooden bench at the local tea-shop, tired, exhausted, all clothes wet from rain water, panting....still extremely excited that I survived...I recalled the old man who said, no she won't make it. I wish I could tell him, "Yes, I did it!" :) 

Tips for you: 
*Never be late to start, plan your trip of 7 hours (as an inexperienced local) such a way that to be back before sunset - specially if it's a wet season
*Forget sandals or sandal shoes, put on shoes with good grip
*Never leave your waste at the falls
*Don't forget to respect, reward and thank the good villagers who always gather to bring back the lost tourists until midnight only because they care. (they rescue tourists if they see that a group is late. 3 of them rescued 3 girls who were crying in the dark as they were failing to hike the muddy slopes and bamboo bridges in the dark.)
*always hire a local guide

Enjoy your own Hum Hum or the Leopard falls (locals used to call it Leopard or Cheetah falls since once upon a time there were a good number of Cheetahs here - *source-unknown locals)

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